Chapter 1

Basic concepts

Waves are not easy to define. Whitham (1974) defines a wave as โ€œa recognizable signal that is transferred from one part of a medium to another with recognizable velocity of propagationโ€. This is a very broad definition and encompasses an enormous range of dynamical systems as well as physical processes. That is, waves can occur in many different media and take on many different forms. We often think of waves as simple sinusoidal undulations of some substance, but this view is too restricted and often not very useful.

In this course, we will consider a number of different types of waves and wave motions in the ocean and in the atmosphere. They will be found to occur at many different time and space scales. In general, wave-like fluctuations of flow fields are not exact solutions of the continuum formulation of momentum and mass conservation and the laws of thermodynamics. However, they often represent good approximate solutions of those equations.

Therefore, the first step in discussing wave motion is the appropriate simplification of the field equations to obtain a set whose solutions are waves. In most of what we do, this involves linearizing the field equations about some basic state of rest or of quasi-steady motion. That is, products of any dependent variables in the equations are typically assumed to be small in relation to the other terms. It usually proves possible, by this device, to obtain waves as solutions of the linearized equations.

Because the equations are linear, we are entitled to superpose solutions of the equations in order to find solutions to more general initial and boundary value problems. This is one of the real beauties of linear wave theory. We will spend most of our time studying such linear waves and their properties before relaxing the linearization condition which precludes nonlinear interactions.

As we will see, there are many different waves with quite different characteristics which can exist within the framework of rotating fluid systems such as the ocean and the atmosphere. In order to proceed, certain concepts and approaches which are common to most studies of linear waves should be understood first. Some of these are presented next.

Plane waves

The basic state of rest or quasi-steady flow about which the waves are linear perturbations defines the medium through which the waves propagate. If we assume that the medium is homogeneous in space and time (even if it strictly is not), then possible solutions often have the form of a plane wave: ฯ•(xโ†’,t)=โ„œAei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt).\phi(\vec{x},t)=\Re\,A e^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)}.

where ฯ•(xโ†’,t)\phi(\vec{x},t) are the dependent variables (i.e., velocity uโ†’\vec{u}, pressure pp, density ฯ\rho, etc.), AA is the amplitude, kโ†’=(k,โ„“,m)\vec{k}=(k,{โ„“},m) is the wavenumber, ฯƒ\sigma is the radian frequency, and โ„œ\Re means that we take the real part of the expression. Customary auxiliary definitions are ฮป=2ฯ€/|kโ†’|=wavelength,f=ฯƒ/2ฯ€=frequency,T=2ฯ€/ฯƒ=1/f=period.\lambda=2\pi/|\vec{k}|=\text{wavelength},\qquad f=\sigma/2\pi=\text{frequency},\qquad T=2\pi/\sigma=1/f=\text{period}.

Since AA is complex, it carries with it not only amplitude but also phase information. We could, of course, write ฯ•(xโ†’,t)=|A|cos(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt+tanโˆ’1โ„‘Aโ„œA)\phi(\vec{x},t)=|A|\cos\left(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t +\tan^{-1}\frac{\Im A}{\Re A}\right) where โ„‘\Im refers to the imaginary part of the expression. However, it is often much more convenient to work with the complex form of all variables and to take the real parts only at the very end. This is always possible because we have linearized the field equations.

The convention ei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt)e^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)} is preferable to the convention ei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’+ฯƒt)e^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}+\sigma t)} because, in the first case, wave โ€˜crests and troughsโ€™ move in the direction of kโ†’\vec{k} when ฯƒ>0\sigma>0. This can be seen by examining the phase of the wave, namely kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t. Surfaces of constant phase, kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt=ฮฆ0\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t=\Phi_0, are planes normal to kโ†’\vec{k} and moving outward along kโ†’\vec{k} as tt increases (for ฯƒ>0\sigma>0). In two dimensions we have

image
Figure 1.1

The speed at which phase planes move along kโ†’\vec{k} is the phase speed c=ฯƒ/|kโ†’|=ฮป/T.c=\sigma/|\vec{k}|=\lambda/T. It is directed along kโ†’\vec{k}. Note that the speed of phase plane intersection with the xx-axis is not ccosฮธc\cos\theta but rather is ccosฮธ=(ฯƒ|kโ†’|)(|kโ†’|k)=ฯƒ/k\frac{c}{\cos\theta} =\left(\frac{\sigma}{|\vec{k}|}\right) \left(\frac{|\vec{k}|}{k}\right) =\sigma/k which can be considerably faster than cc. In fact, as ฮธโ†’ฯ€/2\theta\to\pi/2, the phase speed in the xx-direction approaches infinity!

The form Aei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt)Ae^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)} is called a โ€˜travelling plane waveโ€™. The superposition of oppositely travelling plane waves Aei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt)+Aei(โˆ’kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt)=2Aeโˆ’iฯƒtcos(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’)Ae^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)} +Ae^{i(-\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)} =2Ae^{-i\sigma t}\cos(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}) is called a standing wave because the crests and troughs do not propagate with time. It is not always possible to construct such a superposition because oppositely travelling plane waves are not always possible and, even when possible, may have different wavenumbers.

The dispersion relation

All of the foregoing is kinematics, true for any given ฯƒ,kโ†’\sigma,\vec{k} with no physics. The physics are contained in the dispersion relation ฯƒ=ฮฉ(kโ†’)\sigma=\Omega(\vec{k}) which is obtained by requiring the plane waves to be solutions of the linearized, dissipationless equations of motion. The following table contains some examples of wave equations (all of which we will encounter later) with their respective dispersion relations.

Linearized Equation Plane wave Dispersion Relation
a) ฯ•t+c0ฯ•x=0\phi_t+c_0\phi_x=0 eikxโˆ’iฯƒte^{ikx-i\sigma t} ฯƒ=c0k\sigma=c_0k
b) ฯ•ttโˆ’c02ฯ•xx=0\phi_{tt}-c_0^2\phi_{xx}=0 eikxโˆ’iฯƒte^{ikx-i\sigma t} ฯƒ2=c02k2\sigma^2=c_0^2k^2
c) ฯ•t+cโ†’0โ‹…โˆ‡ฯ•=0\phi_t+\vec c_0\cdot\nabla\phi=0 eikโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’iฯƒte^{i\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-i\sigma t} ฯƒ=cโ†’0โ‹…kโ†’\sigma=\vec c_0\cdot\vec{k}
d) ฯ•ttโˆ’c02โˆ‡2ฯ•=0\phi_{tt}-c_0^2\nabla^2\phi=0 eikโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’iฯƒte^{i\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-i\sigma t} ฯƒ2=c02|kโ†’|2\sigma^2=c_0^2|\vec{k}|^2
e) โˆ‡2ฯ•t+ฮฒฯ•x=0\nabla^2\phi_t+\beta\phi_x=0 eikโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’iฯƒte^{i\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-i\sigma t} ฯƒ=โˆ’ฮฒk/|kโ†’|2\sigma=-\beta k/|\vec{k}|^2

Each linearized equation is a statement of approximate dynamical and thermodynamical conservation laws. All are solved using plane waves of the type discussed above. All require different dispersion relations, and the solutions have different properties. For cases (a)โ€“(d), the phase speed c=ฯƒ/|kโ†’|c=\sigma/|\vec{k}| is independent of wavelength, frequency or direction. Such waves are nondispersive or dispersionless because all waves (for each case individually) travel with the same speed. In case (e), the phase speed cc is dependent upon the wavelength and the direction, so these waves are dispersive. As we will see, this basically means that a group of such

waves will not remain together while propagating through the medium, but instead will break up or disperse. Standing waves, as defined above, are possible in cases (b) and (d) because oppositely travelling waves can occur with the same wavenumber but with frequencies of opposite sign. That is, the dispersion relation has more than one branch, ฯƒ=ฮฉj(kโ†’)\sigma=\Omega_j(\vec{k}) for j=1,โ€ฆ,nj=1,\ldots,n. However, in cases (a), (c) and (e), a given wavenumber corresponds to only a single frequency (only one branch), i.e. waves can travel only in one direction, so standing waves are not possible.

Several cautionary notes are in order here. Plane waves are rarely the complete solution to any boundary or initial value problem. If the medium is actually homogeneous and steady, then plane waves may often be superposed to solve such problems. However, often the medium is not homogeneous or steady, so plane wave solutions then require modifications before they can be used. We shall spend a good part of this course deriving linearized equations which isolate particular physics and we shall discuss the appropriate plane wave solutions in detail. But it must be kept in mind that, in order to establish a basis for comparison with observations of real systems, a boundary or initial value problem must be solved, most probably including medium inhomogeneities. We shall, in some instances, show examples of such problems for some sets of linearized equations.

Linear superposition of plane waves

In a homogeneous medium, initial value problems are solvable as Fourier integrals which amounts to summing an infinite number of plane wave solutions. If the dispersion relation has nn branches ฯƒ=ฮฉj(kโ†’),j=1,โ€ฆ,n\sigma=\Omega_j(\vec{k}),\qquad j=1,\ldots,n

then nn initial conditions are normally required. The solution takes the form ฯ•(xโ†’,t)=โˆ‘j=1nโˆญโˆ’โˆžโˆžAj(kโ†’)ei[kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฮฉj(kโ†’)t]dkโ†’\phi(\vec{x},t)=\sum_{j=1}^n \iiint_{-\infty}^{\infty} A_j(\vec{k})e^{i[\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\Omega_j(\vec{k})t]} \,d\vec{k} where the Aj(kโ†’)A_j(\vec{k}) are fixed by the initial conditions. For example, if n=1n=1, and we are in one dimension ฯƒ=ฮฉ(k)\sigma=\Omega(k) ฯ•(x,t)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k)t]dk.\phi(x,t)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty} A(k)e^{i[kx-\Omega(k)t]} \,dk. A(k)A(k) is fixed by specifying ฯ•(x,0)\phi(x,0), that is ฯ•(x,0)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eikxdk;A(k)=12ฯ€โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžฯ•(x,0)eโˆ’ikxdx.\phi(x,0)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{ikx}\,dk; \qquad A(k)=\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}\phi(x,0)e^{-ikx}\,dx. Notice that if ฮฉ=ck\Omega=ck, then ฯ•(x,t)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eik(xโˆ’ct)dk=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eikxโ€ฒdk=ฯ•(xโˆ’ct,0).\phi(x,t)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{ik(x-ct)}\,dk =\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{ikx'}\,dk =\phi(x-ct,0). This means that, in this special case, the initial condition ฯ•(x,0)\phi(x,0) translates towards x>0x>0 at speed cc without changing shape.

For homogeneous media, therefore, the problem is generally solved by (i) finding the dispersion relation, (ii) deducing the Aj(kโ†’)A_j(\vec{k}) from initial conditions, and (iii) evaluating a set of Fourier integrals.

The method of stationary phase: Group velocity

The greatest difficulty with the above procedure is most often that the integrals are hard to do. A very useful approximate technique with physical content is the method

of stationary phase. As a preview, let us consider a one-dimensional example with the special initial condition ฯ•(x,0)=a(x)eik0x\phi(x,0)=a(x)e^{ik_0x}.

image
Figure 1.2

This represents a slowly modulated plane wave with envelope a(x)a(x). We can always write ฯ•(x,0)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eikxdk;A(k)=12ฯ€โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžฯ•(x,0)eโˆ’ikxdx\phi(x,0)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{ikx}\,dk; \qquad A(k)=\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}\phi(x,0)e^{-ikx}\,dx and so A(k)=12ฯ€โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆža(x)ei(k0โˆ’k)xdx;a(x)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei(kโˆ’k0)xdk.A(k)=\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_{-\infty}^{\infty} a(x)e^{i(k_0-k)x}\,dx; \qquad a(x)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{i(k-k_0)x}\,dk. In the integral for A(k)A(k), the contribution to the integral itself is mostly from the regions where the quantity (k0โˆ’k)x(k_0-k)x is small. In fact, where this quantity is large, ei(k0โˆ’k)xe^{i(k_0-k)x} oscillates rapidly and the integrated parts cancel each other. Moreover, a(x)=0a(x)=0 for xโ‰ซฮ”xx\gg\Delta x. So, A(k)A(k) is centered around k0k_0 and peaked there for this special choice of ฯ•(x,0)\phi(x,0).

image
Figure 1.3

The modulated plane wave is said to be a โ€˜narrow band signalโ€™.

We can evaluate ฯ•(x,t)\phi(x,t) by expanding ฮฉ(k)\Omega(k) in a Taylor series about k0k_0: ฯ•(x,t)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k)t]dkโ‰ƒโˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k0)tโˆ’(kโˆ’k0)(โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚k)|k=k0t]dk=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k0)tโˆ’(kโˆ’k0)(โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚k)|k=k0t]eik0xโˆ’ik0xdk=ei[k0xโˆ’ฮฉ(k0)t]โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei(kโˆ’k0)[xโˆ’(โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚k)|k=k0t]dk.\begin{aligned} \phi(x,t) & =\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{i[kx-\Omega(k)t]}\,dk \\ & \simeq\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k) e^{i[kx-\Omega(k_0)t-(k-k_0)(\partial\Omega/\partial k)|_{k=k_0}t]}\,dk \\ & =\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k) e^{i[kx-\Omega(k_0)t-(k-k_0)(\partial\Omega/\partial k)|_{k=k_0}t]} e^{ik_0x-ik_0x}\,dk \\ & =e^{i[k_0x-\Omega(k_0)t]} \int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k) e^{i(k-k_0)[x-(\partial\Omega/\partial k)|_{k=k_0}t]}\,dk. \end{aligned} That is ฯ•(x,t)=ei[k0xโˆ’ฮฉ(k0)t]a(xโˆ’โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚k|k=k0t).\phi(x,t)=e^{i[k_0x-\Omega(k_0)t]} a\left(x-\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k}\right|_{k=k_0}t\right). The modulating envelope moves at a velocity โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚k|k=k0\left.\partial\Omega/\partial k\right|_{k=k_0}, defined by the dispersion relation ฯƒ=ฮฉ(k)\sigma=\Omega(k). This velocity is called the group velocity cg=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚k|k=k0c_g=\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k}\right|_{k=k_0} and is not, in general, equal to the phase speed c=ฯƒ/kc=\sigma/k of the modulated plane wave. Therefore, the dominant wavelength ฮป=2ฯ€/k0\lambda=2\pi/k_0 has two speeds associated with it. They are the phase speed c=ฯƒ/k0=ฮฉ(k0)/k0c=\sigma/k_0=\Omega(k_0)/k_0 and the group velocity cg=โˆ‚ฯƒ/โˆ‚k|k=k0=โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚k|k=k0c_g=\partial\sigma/\partial k|_{k=k_0}=\partial\Omega/\partial k|_{k=k_0}. The modulated envelope thus moves through the phases of the underlying plane wave rather than with them.

The restriction to narrow band processes is illustrative but not necessary. Consider ฯ•(x,t)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k)t]dk.\phi(x,t)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{i[kx-\Omega(k)t]}\,dk. Define ฮ˜(k;x,t)=kx/tโˆ’ฮฉ(k).\Theta(k;x,t)=kx/t-\Omega(k). Then ฯ•(x,t)=โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eitฮ˜(k;x,t)dk.\phi(x,t)=\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{it\Theta(k;x,t)}\,dk.

The Riemannโ€“Lebesgue theorem (e.g. Bender and Orszag, 1978, pp. 277โ€“278) says that if โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)dk\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)\,dk exists, then limtโ†’โˆžโˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eitkdk=0\lim_{t\to\infty}\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k)e^{itk}\,dk=0. Hence, we get little contribution to ฯ•(x,t)\phi(x,t) unless ฮ˜(k;x,t)\Theta(k;x,t) has no variation with kk, i.e., unless there exist k0k_0 such that (โˆ‚ฮ˜/โˆ‚k)|k0=0\left.(\partial\Theta/\partial k)\right|_{k_0}=0. Perhaps a more intuitive statement is that the integrand looks like

image
Figure 1.4

in which the rapid oscillations of eitฮ˜e^{it\Theta}, as tโ†’โˆžt\to\infty, cancel unless โˆ‚ฮ˜/โˆ‚k=0\partial\Theta/\partial k=0 somewhere.

Stationary phase now asserts ฯ•(x,t)โ‰ƒโˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžA(k)eit[ฮ˜(k0)+(kโˆ’k0)ฮ˜โ€ฒ(k0)+(kโˆ’k0)2ฮ˜โ€ณ(k0)/2]dk.\phi(x,t)\simeq\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}A(k) e^{it[\Theta(k_0)+(k-k_0)\Theta'(k_0) +(k-k_0)^2\Theta''(k_0)/2]}\,dk. In other words, at a given xx and tt, the greatest contribution to ฯ•(x,t)\phi(x,t) is from that wavenumber k0k_0 at which ฮ˜โ€ฒ(k0;x,t)=0\Theta'(k_0;x,t)=0. Since ฮ˜(k;x,t)=kx/tโˆ’ฮฉ(k)\Theta(k;x,t)=kx/t-\Omega(k) we have x/tโˆ’โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚k|k0=0x/t-\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k}\right|_{k_0}=0 which means that the wavenumber k0k_0 that makes the biggest contribution to ฯ•(x,t)\phi(x,t) is the one for which โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚k|k0=x/t;\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k}\right|_{k_0}=x/t; i.e., the one whose group velocity is x/tx/t.

To estimate that contribution, realise that ฮ˜โ€ฒ(k0)=0\Theta'(k_0)=0, so that ฯ•(x,t)โ‰ƒA(k0)eitฮ˜(k0)โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžei(kโˆ’k0)2ฮ˜โ€ณ(k0)t/2dk.\phi(x,t)\simeq A(k_0)e^{it\Theta(k_0)} \int_{-\infty}^{\infty} e^{i(k-k_0)^2\Theta''(k_0)t/2}\,dk.

or, since โˆซโˆ’โˆžโˆžeโˆ’ฮฑx2dx=(ฯ€/ฮฑ)1/2\int_{-\infty}^{\infty}e^{-\alpha x^2}\,dx=(\pi/\alpha)^{1/2}, then ฯ•(x,t)โ‰ƒA(k0)eitฮ˜(k0)[2ฯ€/โˆ’itฮ˜โ€ณ(k0;x,t)]1/2\phi(x,t)\simeq A(k_0)e^{it\Theta(k_0)} [2\pi/-it\Theta''(k_0;x,t)]^{1/2} ฯ•(x,t)โ‰ƒA(k0)ei[k0xโˆ’ฮฉ(k0)t][2ฯ€/โˆ’itฮ˜โ€ณ(k0;x,t)]1/2.\phi(x,t)\simeq A(k_0)e^{i[k_0x-\Omega(k_0)t]} [2\pi/-it\Theta''(k_0;x,t)]^{1/2}. The solution is thus a slowly modulated plane wave whose wavenumber k0k_0 is characterized by โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚k|k0=x/t.\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k}\right|_{k_0}=x/t.

The solution is only valid for very large tt and xx because it requires the rapid oscillation of ei[kxโˆ’ฮฉ(k)t]e^{i[kx-\Omega(k)t]} at all kk except those where xโˆ’ฮฉkt=0x-\Omega_k t=0. It thus describes the waves far from and long after their initial generation.

Waves in slowly varying media: Ray theory

The procedure of Fourier synthesis followed by stationary phase interpretation is natural in homogeneous media. It introduces the concept of group velocity, but the idea and significance of group velocity extend into problems for which Fourier synthesis is clumsy at best. An important set of such problems includes those for which the medium varies over a scale LmL_m which is much greater than the length scale of the waves, LwL_w. In these cases, an approximate technique called the WKB method can exploit the smallness of Lw/LmL_w/L_m. The WKB method, however, is often tedious and difficult to interpret. Instead, a general โ€˜recipeโ€™ called ray theory, which corresponds to the first and second orders of approximation of the WKB method, can be used.

Let us consider a locally periodic solution of the form ฯ•=a(xโ†’,t)eiฮ˜(xโ†’,t)\phi=a(\vec{x},t)e^{i\Theta(\vec{x},t)} in which the amplitude aa and the phase ฮ˜\Theta are slowly varying functions of xโ†’\vec{x} and tt; i.e., they vary with the large space and time scales of the medium or of the wave groups

and not the small scale of the sinusoidal plane wave. We can define the local wavenumber kโ†’\vec{k} and the local frequency NN by kโ†’=โˆ‡ฮ˜|t;N=โˆ’ฮ˜t|xโ†’\vec{k}=\left.\nabla\Theta\right|_t; \qquad N=-\left.\Theta_t\right|_{\vec{x}} where โˆ‡\nabla is the gradient operator and |t|_t, |xโ†’|_{\vec{x}} indicate that the partial derivatives are carried out keeping the other coordinate constant. Thus, ฮ”a/aโ‰ช1\Delta a/a\ll1 and ฮ”ฮ˜/ฮ˜โ‰ช1\Delta\Theta/\Theta\ll1 over |kโ†’|โˆ’1|\vec{k}|^{-1} and Nโˆ’1N^{-1}.

For these definitions, we see first that โˆ‡ร—kโ†’=0\nabla\times\vec{k}=0 which states that the local wavenumber is irrotational. Now suppose we go from place AA to place BB over the path ฮ“\Gamma.

image
Figure 1.5

The number of wave crests we pass through is n=12ฯ€โˆซABkโ†’โ‹…dsโ†’.n=\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_A^B\vec{k}\cdot d\vec{s}. But since โˆฎkโ†’โ‹…dsโ†’=โˆซkฬ‚โ‹…โˆ‡ร—kโ†’dr=0\oint\vec{k}\cdot d\vec{s}=\int\hat{k}\cdot\nabla\times\vec{k}\,dr=0 (by Stokesโ€™ theorem where kฬ‚\hat{k} is the unit vector normal to the surface and drdr is an element of the area inside the path), then the number of wave crests inside the region is conserved. That is, the crests have no ends, so the number of crests within a wave group will be the same for all time. This need not be true for all waves, but it is true for slowly varying plane waves as defined above.

From the definition of kโ†’\vec{k} and NN, it follows that โˆ‚kโ†’โˆ‚t|xโ†’+โˆ‡N|t=0.\left.\frac{\partial\vec{k}}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{x}} +\left.\nabla N\right|_t=0.

(1.1)

Now with the above definition of nn, we have โˆ‚nโˆ‚t=12ฯ€โˆซABโˆ‚kโ†’โˆ‚tโ‹…dsโ†’=โˆ’12ฯ€โˆซABโˆ‡Nโ‹…dsโ†’=12ฯ€(NAโˆ’NB).\frac{\partial n}{\partial t} =\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_A^B\frac{\partial\vec{k}}{\partial t}\cdot d\vec{s} =-\frac{1}{2\pi}\int_A^B\nabla N\cdot d\vec{s} =\frac{1}{2\pi}(N_A-N_B). This says that the rate of change of the number of wave crests between AA and BB is equal to the rate of crest inflow at AA minus the rate of crest outflow at BB. Thus (1.1) expresses the conservation of wave crests between AA and BB, i.e., crests are neither created nor destroyed.

So far, we have defined the local wavenumber and frequency only as derivatives of ฮ˜\Theta. There has been no direct statement of dynamics. We introduce dynamics by asserting that the wavenumber and frequency must be related in just the same way that they are for a plane wave! N=ฮฉ(kโ†’;xโ†’,t)N=\Omega(\vec{k};\vec{x},t) where, if we solved for plane waves ei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’ฯƒt)e^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-\sigma t)} while keeping all variable medium parameters momentarily constant, we would obtain ฯƒ=ฮฉ(kโ†’;xโ†’,t)\sigma=\Omega(\vec{k};\vec{x},t) as our dispersion relation. This turns out to be equivalent to the lowest order of a WKB calculation, despite being stated here as an arbitrary recipe.

Now this assertion and the definitions of kโ†’\vec{k} and NN allow us to introduce the group velocity in another way. โˆ‚Nโˆ‚t|xโ†’=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚t|kโ†’,xโ†’+โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚ki|xโ†’,tโˆ‚kiโˆ‚t|xโ†’=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚t|kโ†’,xโ†’โˆ’cgiโˆ‚Nโˆ‚xi|t\left.\frac{\partial N}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{x}} =\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{k},\vec{x}} +\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k_i}\right|_{\vec{x},t} \left.\frac{\partial k_i}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{x}} =\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{k},\vec{x}} -c_{g_i}\left.\frac{\partial N}{\partial x_i}\right|_t in which the group velocity has been defined as cgi=โˆ‚Nโˆ‚ki=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚ki.c_{g_i}=\frac{\partial N}{\partial k_i}=\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k_i}.

and the repeated index implies summation. In vector form, we have โˆ‚Nโˆ‚t+cโ†’gโ‹…โˆ‡N=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚t|kโ†’,xโ†’.\frac{\partial N}{\partial t}+\vec{c}_g\cdot\nabla N =\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial t}\right|_{\vec{k},\vec{x}}.

(1.2)

In a similar manner starting with (1.1) โˆ‚kiโˆ‚t+โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚xi+โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚kjโˆ‚kjโˆ‚xi=0.\frac{\partial k_i}{\partial t} +\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial x_i} +\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial k_j} \frac{\partial k_j}{\partial x_i}=0. Since โˆ‡ร—kโ†’=0\nabla\times\vec{k}=0, then โˆ‚kj/โˆ‚xi=โˆ‚ki/โˆ‚xj\partial k_j/\partial x_i=\partial k_i/\partial x_j, so we have โˆ‚kiโˆ‚t+cโ†’gโ‹…โˆ‡ki=โˆ’โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚xi|kโ†’,t.\frac{\partial k_i}{\partial t}+\vec{c}_g\cdot\nabla k_i =-\left.\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial x_i}\right|_{\vec{k},t}.

(1.3)

We thus have very simple expressions, (1.2) and (1.3), for the evolution of local wavenumber kโ†’\vec{k} and local frequency NN as we move along a ray (i.e., we move at the local group velocity cโ†’g\vec{c}_g) in terms of the plane wave dispersion relation. Such variations occur when ฮฉ(kโ†’;xโ†’,t)\Omega(\vec{k};\vec{x},t) has parametric xโ†’,t\vec{x},t dependence such as if waves move in water of variable depth.

The implications of these equations deserve some discussion. Suppose first that the medium is homogeneous, i.e. N=ฮฉ(kโ†’)โ‰ ฮฉ(kโ†’;xโ†’,t)N=\Omega(\vec{k})\ne\Omega(\vec{k};\vec{x},t). One possible solution is the plane wave ฯ•=aei(kโ†’โ‹…xโ†’โˆ’Nt)\phi=ae^{i(\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}-Nt)} when kโ†’\vec{k} and NN are constants. The initial condition is ฯ•(xโ†’,0)=aeikโ†’โ‹…xโ†’\phi(\vec{x},0)=ae^{i\vec{k}\cdot\vec{x}}. Since โˆ‚ki/โˆ‚xj=0\partial k_i/\partial x_j=0 and โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚xi=0\partial\Omega/\partial x_i=0, then from (1.3), โˆ‚ki/โˆ‚t=0\partial k_i/\partial t=0 everywhere, that is kโ†’\vec{k} never changes at future times. Similarly, N=ฮฉ(kโ†’)N=\Omega(\vec{k}) gives NN at t=0t=0. Since โˆ‚N/โˆ‚xi=0\partial N/\partial x_i=0, โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚t=0\partial\Omega/\partial t=0, then by (1.2) โˆ‚N/โˆ‚t=0\partial N/\partial t=0 everywhere, that is NN never changes at future times. The plane wave in a homogeneous medium is thus entirely consistent with the ray theory formulation.

Suppose now that the medium remains homogeneous, but the initial conditions are more complicated. Both aa and kโ†’\vec{k} have slow xโ†’\vec{x} dependence at t=0t=0 as illustrated below:

image
Figure 1.6

Notice that aa and kโ†’\vec{k} should vary slowly over ฮป\lambda, even though the sketch is not very slowly varying.

The initial frequency is obtained from N(xโ†’,0)=ฮฉ[kโ†’(xโ†’,0)]N(\vec{x},0)=\Omega[\vec{k}(\vec{x},0)]. To find N(xโ†’,t)N(\vec{x},t), kโ†’(xโ†’,t)\vec{k}(\vec{x},t) we solve the initial value problem โˆ‚kiโˆ‚t+cgjโˆ‚kiโˆ‚xj=0\frac{\partial k_i}{\partial t} +c_{g_j}\frac{\partial k_i}{\partial x_j}=0 โˆ‚Nโˆ‚t+cgjโˆ‚Nโˆ‚xj=0\frac{\partial N}{\partial t} +c_{g_j}\frac{\partial N}{\partial x_j}=0 because the assumed homogeneity of the medium implies โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚t=0\partial\Omega/\partial t=0 and โˆ‚ฮฉ/โˆ‚xi=0\partial\Omega/\partial x_i=0. This initial value problem may have to be solved numerically, but the equations have a simple physical interpretation. They say that, if we move at the group velocity cโ†’g=โˆ‡kโ†’ฮฉ\vec{c}_g=\nabla_{\vec{k}}\Omega appropriate to the wavenumber kโ†’\vec{k} and the frequency N=ฮฉ(kโ†’)N=\Omega(\vec{k}), then we shall see no change in NN and kโ†’\vec{k} at future times. In other words, NN and kโ†’\vec{k} are constant following a group in a homogeneous medium. The situation can be sketched as follows

image
Figure 1.7

Clearly, if we sit at a fixed xโ†’\vec{x}, different groups pass at different times. So at fixed xโ†’\vec{x}, โˆ‚N/โˆ‚tโ‰ 0\partial N/\partial t\ne0, โˆ‚kโ†’/โˆ‚tโ‰ 0\partial\vec{k}/\partial t\ne0, in general, even though the medium is homogeneous. The whole idea fails if the rays, given by xโ†’=xโ†’0+โˆซ0tcโ†’g[kโ†’(xโ†’,t)]dt\vec{x}=\vec{x}_0+ \int_0^t\vec{c}_g[\vec{k}(\vec{x},t)]\,dt cross each other. In that case, the solution is no longer of slowly varying form.

From this point of view, the medium inhomogeneities are only technical complications. In the general inhomogeneous case, we must solve (1.2) and (1.3), so kโ†’\vec{k} and NN vary even though we move with a group. If we define a โ€˜totalโ€™ derivative as ddt=โˆ‚โˆ‚t+cโ†’gโ‹…โˆ‡\frac{d}{dt}=\frac{\partial}{\partial t}+\vec{c}_g\cdot\nabla which is the derivative following the wave group (or wave packet), then (1.2) and (1.3) can be rewritten as dkidt=โˆ’โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚xi\frac{dk_i}{dt}=-\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial x_i} and dNdt=โˆ‚ฮฉโˆ‚t.\frac{dN}{dt}=\frac{\partial\Omega}{\partial t}.

while the position of the wave group is given by dxโ†’dt=cโ†’g[kโ†’(xโ†’,t)].\frac{d\vec{x}}{dt}=\vec{c}_g[\vec{k}(\vec{x},t)]. Then we have a set of three ordinary differential equations for xโ†’\vec{x} (position of the wave packet), kโ†’\vec{k} and NN. These may be integrated in time from a number of different starting positions xโ†’0\vec{x}_0 in order to get kโ†’\vec{k}, NN at future times, a procedure which is computationally efficient and effective. The path dxโ†’/dt=cโ†’gd\vec{x}/dt=\vec{c}_g defines the ray.

The lowest order of the corresponding WKB calculation justifies the foregoing assertions. The next order of the WKB calculation fixes the amplitude. In many cases, the more complex WKB calculation amounts to solving โˆ‚๐’œโˆ‚t+โˆ‡โ‹…(cโ†’g๐’œ)=0\frac{\partial\mathcal{A}}{\partial t} +\nabla\cdot(\vec{c}_g\mathcal{A})=0 where ๐’œ=โ„ฐ/N\mathcal{A}=\mathcal{E}/N and โ„ฐ\mathcal{E} is the wave energy. ๐’œ\mathcal{A} is called the action of the wave. Usually โ„ฐโˆa2\mathcal{E}\propto a^2 so this equation really describes aa, but a great deal of further discussion is necessary to establish its validity. Here we have simply set forward โ€˜recipesโ€™ which give aa, NN, kโ†’\vec{k}.